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This skirt can be worn alone for a modern style, or worn over a long, lightweight blouse style dress.
Ideal Fabric: soft satin
1. Fold each of the front pleats and stitch two layers together on stitching line. Press a crease at the fold line.
2. Sew darts at sides.
3. Sew the center back seam and insert an invisible zipper. Alternately, the skirt can be lapped and buttoned, which is more historically accurate.
3. Cut a piece of grossgrain ribbon two inches longer than the desired waist measurement. Ease skirt evenly to fit the ribbon, aligning the zipper one inch from each cut edge. Stitch ribbon flat on the right side of the skirt, and fold to inside, tacking in place at darts. Turn one inch under at center back and fold to inside, stitching in place. Add a hook and eye to secure the zipper to keep the skirt from opening. Or add a button tab to the inside.
4. Hem bottom edge.
Alternate Style: Bottom edge can be bound with bias tape.
This cowl is designed to be pinned to under dress (otherwise it will slip off the shoulders). The back and front are identical.
Ideal Fabric: soft satin
1. Fold fashion fabric on the true bias (45 degrees). Fold in half again, aligning the folded edge, so that the fabric has two perpendicular folded edges.
2. Place the cowl pattern on the fabric, aligning the folded edges. Cut out and mark the fabric.
3. Repeat steps one and two for the second piece.
4. Fold each piece in half, right sides together, aligning the hem edges, and sew the hem seam. Turn the pieces right side out and press.
5. Pleat the shoulder seam as shown on the pattern and stitch the pleats flat.
6. Sew the two pieces together at the shoulders and finish.
This dress is designed to be pinned to undergarments (otherwise it will slip off the shoulders). The back is slightly lower than the front.
Ideal Fabrics (for dress and neck binding): lightweight cotton, such as lawn, batiste or handkerchief cotton, or lightweight silk.
Edge Binding Fabric: one to two inch wide soft satin bias binding (not blanket binding, which is too stiff).
1. Stitch and finish back panel to sleeve seams and front panels to sleeve seams.
2. French seam underarm/side seams, matching underarm seams.
3. Front Edge Binding: Pin one inch satin bias binding to the front edge, and around to back hem, continuing to opposite front edge. Steam binding so that it curves naturally and conforms to the dress fabric, repinning as necessary to adjust fullness. Stitch binding in place.
4. Neck Edge Binding: Sew center back seam and press open. Finish one edge of the neck binding (hem it 1/4 inch). Match marks on binding to marks on dress, overlapping the dress at center front (right side on top) and pin in place. Ease dress evenly to match binding and stich binding in place. Trim cut edge evenly. Wrap binding around cut edge and finish.
5. Roll sleeve hem and finish. Pin fringe in place to underside of sleeve and stitch in place.
This dress could be made out of heavier fabric, buttoned down the front, and worn with an added belt or covered with a jumper or tunic. Front can also be left open and dress used as a lounging gown.
For a more stable neckline (softer fabrics may stretch over time), use 1/2 inch to 1 inch wide grosgrain ribbon or other non-stretchy trim.
A wider binding may be used at the neckline as a casing. Leave an opening near the front and thread decorative cord through the casing for an adjustable neck edge.
The center front can be placed on the fold of the fabric for a single front panel, and the binding trim can be mitered at the center front hem.