Step one: purchase enough buckram to make the hat. I didn’t have any buckram, so I used four layers of crinoline, because I had that in stock. I stitched the four layers of crinoline together so that I had one solid piece of stiff fabric.
Step two: cut out the pattern pieces according to the instructions.
Step three: turn the pattern pieces over. If you have translucent fabric and you can see the markings through the fabric, transfer all markings from the pattern onto the fabric.
Step four: slit the darts and overlap the dart legs. Pin in place.
Step five: you can either stitch the darts by themselves or combine the next step.
Step six: add bendable wire in the dart area and zigzag in place. Notice in the photograph that the ends of the wire are bent. This prevents the wire from poking through the hat. You may wish to cover the wire with a fabric casing so that the wire will never poke through the hat. This is a good precaution if the hat is to be worn extensively.
Step seven: sew the stand seam by overlapping the layers and zigzagging in place.
Step eight: pin the crown of the hat in place and stitch the seam line.
Step nine: stitch wire into the seam allowance. Note for smooth topped hat, the hat form can be inverted (turned inside out) so that the seam is on the inside. This will deform the wire and the hat form will have to be reshaped.
Step ten: this step is difficult, and may have to be completed by hand. Stitch bias tape to the edge of the bottom hem. Insert a wire next to the buckram, and pin the bias tape tightly around the wire, holding it in place, so that it abuts with the edge of the buckram. Stitch the bias tape in place.
The hat form is now complete.